10baseT

I'll try a little fan pressure as well.

vous etes, nous sommes, ils sont, mmmm, j'oublie beacoup de mon francais. Mais, j'espere que je souviens... non, cest n'est pas le mot. Heck, anyway,, this sounds cool. I'm going to download and see if i can translate it. Thx.

Ditto and amen (I would pay for this)

Love the MW cover. When i look at it, i think of an Agimori.

I hope there will be more RQ Dragon Pass/Prax scenarios. I miss the dedicated scenarios there... well, actually Doraster too. The RQ3 DP/Prax/Doraster stuff from Avalon Hill and RQA were my last fix and i would really love (and pay) to see more.

Dang, i didnt even know there was a kickstarter on this. I suppose it's too late to contribute/purchase?

Now for some Pleistocene music for your dining on giant sloth bone marrow pleasure. Ladies and gentleman, Korg and his cave bear femur flute, take away Korg. (make sure to scroll down and hit play on the link to listen to the music) http://www.snipview.com/q/Divje_Babe_flute This is just good meat and potatoes for anyone in the land of ice and stone.

It sounds like you're looking for some good pike & shot, royalist & roundheads, spanish tercio, etc type of setting. If so, i've looked before and really haven't seen any. All you can find are somewhat and close-to. Some good ones have already been mentioned. If colonial America, there's some good stuff to be found (the colonial gothic previously mentioned is good and there's alot). Anyway, here are some i liked. Not BRP but late 18th century; GURPS Age of Napoleon http://www.rpg.net/reviews/archive/9/9655.phtml GURPS The Scarlet Pimpernel http://www.sjgames.com/gurps/books/scarletpimpernel/ Then there's Northern Crown, an alternate North America in 17th century (doesnt look like what you're asking for, but has good background info) http://www.atlas-games.com/crown/ (Rennaissance is a good anchor)

Are these the ones from YBoT 2?

All this talk got me jonesin' for some Pleistocene love. I'm sure everyone has seen Quest for Fire. If you havne seen 'Ao The Last Neanderthal', give it a go. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0P0vsWAXtg . There are some historical liberties taken and a few scenes a little hard to believe, but overall it's entertaining and worth watching. There's some good story ideas to harvest.

That was an excellent and succint post. Seeing the Clawed Hand had me reminiscing about Dragon Pass and Prax (my newtling was crushed in the hollow by the hand... well, he certainly had no businees going there). I hope more stuff comes out for Dragon Pass. Anyway, great post.

You'll have to let us know the details when appropriate or when it releases (or any more hints too).

Well, i would definiltey pick it up and it would probably be easier to combine both as mentioned above. I like the additional detail and insight your gun volumes bring, then applying a system to it. Like shooting under water and round penetration. Your example in vol 1 of the .22 round going thru 10cm of dry pine is a good visual (I actually remember as a young adult shooting my 22 thru 2x4's and looking thru the hole). So this type of information carried over to pre-modern melee weapons, would only be more goodness from you guys... and would work well with tomahawks like if a certain game called colonial cthullhu were to be released, hint hint ahem Besides the stats, some good topics could be like various weapons types vs various armor, ie, bludgeon weapon vs certain armor as oppossed to an impaling or slasthing weapon against that same armor, what's the difference. Or the theory of slashing vs impaling... more strength generated from a swing vs a thrust. Then maybe some discussion on the quality of ingredients and weapon quality, like damascus steel and where was ore retrieved from or maybe it was the overall process. Anyway, these are just examples. Keep up the good work.

I'd be interested, and would pick it up. Anything of the Gamma World, Darwin's World (love their setting of the US), Morrow Project, and Aftermath are all good in my book. Nameless Lands looked pretty cool too and i'd be interested.

I recently picked up and read vol 1 and was very pleased with the detail and treatment. These kind of specialty writeups are unfortunatly overall missing with BRP/CoC/RQ so it was very nice to have this available. This author did a great job with his GURPS weapons and martial right ups and i'm glad to see that same thoroughness has carried over. I picked up vol 2 and scanned through it. I printed the weapons tables at the end of the book to give them an overview and i noticed the FN-FAL wasnt present, but no biggee, this is just a comment and not a complaint ( for a quick glance, i generally look at the M16, FN-FAL and AK47). Thanks for putting these volumes out, good stuff and a good purchase. (Now if someone were to do something like this for medieval weapons)

Awesome,... these were so before their time.

To get into the Hun spirit (as if you need any reason) Marco Polo was released on Netflix about 2 weeks ago and its pretty good. I like Khublai's attitude (can you not have attitude and be Hun?) and i'm inspired to roll up some fun NPCs. Fun to watch.

Something my group does that works very nicely is using GURPS weapon stats, mainly the damage, for BRP/RQ games. We've found they translate over very easily and your PCs will have much more respect for small arms fire. (you'll tend to take cover more and use fire and movement... if you werent already). To give an example, most assault rifles like an M16A2 do 5d6 of damage and some do 7d6 like an FNFAL. Keeping with assault rifles, where you get into more differentiation between them is their damage. Depending on the caliber, some may do damage x1.5 or x2 for any damage that gets thru armor... or maybe even half damage. There are also accuracy modifiers and recoil and a few other items of differentiation. But to keep things easy, you can just go with using their damage, or use all the particulers given you have a gunsmithing player. The average hit points for a human in GURPS tends to be 10-11, but whatever you want to buy really. (for modern games, my group doesnt tend to buy more Health, actually Strength in 4th ed). Anyway, in answer to your post, you can get the High Tech Weapons tables online for $2.99 and use the damages they have listed. And if you like that, jump in a little more and start using the accuracy and damage modifiers. And if you like that, buy High Tech and apply its principals to BRP guns. (i dont know how familiar you are with GURPS. We've been playing it and BRP/RQ for years so cross breeding house rules was pretty straight forward). So, if it adds some fun, have a go. (oh, i havent read sixtystone press' weapons guide, i'll have to check it out). Here's an example of some Kalashnikov details that i think your gunsmithing friend will like. http://www.sjgames.com/gurps/books/High-Tech/ak.pdf Cheers, G

Any chance to get the Merrie England RQ version? (i have the BRP version and just want to add the RQ version to the library as well. On ebay, even though the item says RQ, it ends up being the BRP version). Thx, G

Do you use fatigue rules? When i run, it's rare that a party encounters combat after a nice rest. Typically they've been marching, exploring, spelunking, etc for some time. If so, they're already -2 to -5, or whatver, in fatigue when combat starts. So that -2 to -5/whatever penalty will only increase as combat proceeds. Additionally, they're encumbered, that's its own penalty, or adds to more fatigue, but you get the picture. And If possible, team up. So gang up on an opponent, get bonuses and dont play fair, your job in combat is to win... I know i'm preaching to the choir and someone already alluded to this. So maybe several of these factors can help.

Order placed, thanks. The Huns will be under my tree, drinking spiced kumis and pillaged sweet cakes.

Well, to keep things a bit more realistic, i would probably do something like this; Use These *Fatigue Rules - skills diminish over time due to fatigue which affects attacks and parries. *Special Hits or Crits - increase or max the damage in some way (some already mentioned this). *An extra Armor Penetration die (an AP die) of damage - This is a concept i played with and is easily incorporated. As mentioned before, to get thru the heavier armors, you need to do more damage, so get an appropriate weapon. Or, use a weapon that is more efficient at damaging those in armor. This AP die is like extra damage that only affects armor. For example, a mace does d8+2 damage. Give it an AP die of a d3 or d3+1. Now anytime a PC hits with a mace and you roll damage, also roll the AP die, and use a differently color die. So for the mace roll a d8+2 and a d3. But, the d3 is only applied against armor for the purpose to aid in penetrating the armor. The AP die result may be totally used up, like when attacking someone in plate or chain. Or, it may have left over points when used against someone in hard or soft leather. Unused AP die points are lost. Next, assign an AP die to various weapons (the below is a quick example) Cudgel - 1 point Light Mace - d3 Heavy Mace - d3+1 War Hammer - d3+1 War Maul, Great or Sledge Hammer - d6 This is quick and easy but you can make it more detailed if you like. Or dont use it. It's something i used with my group and they liked it.

Hail, any news on when HiG issue 6 will be out?

Ah, okay, I thought you were talking about the other sort of book binding, making your own hardcover books and using a paper folder (which I've always wanted to try, but looked tricky, looked like it required a lot of tools, and would require me to have a printer that could do 11x17 pages). I don't think I've ever seen this kind of binding before. I have a couple of ring-bound things with plastic covers, but I had to get a copy shop to do it for me, and it cost me as much as buying a hard copy would have (I would have bought the hard copy had it been something I could find a hard copy of, and it was before print on demand was a thing). How do these plastic comb-bound ones hold up, and how much does it cost you to do up a book (pages + ink + cover + spine)? Well, my initial investment was about $60. $10 for the binder machine and $50 for 1", 5/8" and 1/2" combs, 20 sheets of plastic and a ream of paper. I was lucky i found the binder at a at an office sale in the buildings where i work. Most companies have these binding machines in their fulfillment areas or near the paper cutter so i'd check your office and just use it (if you dont want to buy one of course). I've seen binders for a good price on ebay and amazon with free economy shipping, around $55-$65. To keep cost down, you just need to keep your eyes open and also look at coupons and sales for Staples, Office Depot, etc. At first i thought i was spending alot, but when i got going and started binding, i was getting alot of stuffed bound and when i had to resupply, i was like, 'dang, i bound alot of stuff!... how am i going to read all that.' My cost is skewed though. The office i work in has 3 printers that are rarely in use so i take advantage of that. there are also some books i buy the hard copy of for my collection. Like with Mythic Britain if it comes out in hard copy and anything Delta Green or Glorantha RQ in Dragon Pass. Hope that helped and good luck. G

Okay, here's a picture of Mythic Britain with its 1" binding and i included another tome with a 1/2" binding. I bought a comb paper binder at an office sale for $10 and that's what i use. You can get a good binder for about $50 on ebay or amazon(search for paper binder, mine's an ibico). I get my binding combs at any office supply store, wherever they're cheapest. Then i use a plastic sheet for the cover and thick stock for the back (the cover is folded back in this pic so it wouldnt reflect the flash). I made this small investment after a 3 foot pile of printed books accumalated, and i've been doing it ever since. I buy alot of pdfs online so it works for me. Hope this helps. G