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About olskool

  • Rank
    Senior Member


  • RPG Biography
    40 years of gaming. A real world Military and Law Enforcement backround as well as a competitive shooter (IDPA, 3-gun).
  • Current games
    GDW Merc2000 campaign
    RuneQuest (I own EVERY version)
    I own AD&D, ALL GDW's Games, Every version of Runequest, CoC, Boot Hill, Top Secret, Gamma World, Conan (V1), GangBusters, Fantasy Hero, GURPS, Car Wars, FASA's Star Trek, BattleTech, Shadowrun, and many others packed in the back of my closet.

    My first loves are Twilight2000 and Runequest and I have hundreds of hours playing them.
  • Location
    Northwestern PA
  • Blurb
    If you did it and lived, you probably did it right. - SSGT Smiley, the best Gun Section Chief EVER!

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  1. Today, the modern sniper must contend with modern ARMOR. The following armor levels actually exist as I type this. National Institute for Justice is a US testing agency and is designated by the initials NIJ. They test ALL body armor in the US. European and Russian armor levels are comparable to US levels. NIJ Level I soft body armor = This armor will stop pistol rounds up to .380 acp (velocity 1025ft/sec) and is EASILY worn under normal clothing. NIJ Level IIa soft body armor = This armor will stop most pistol rounds and is proof against medium-velocity 9mm (velocity 1090ft/sec) and is also concealable. NIJ Level II soft body armor = This armor will stop .357 magnum ammo (velocity 1395ft/sec) and is concealable. NIJ Level IIIa soft body armor = This armor will stop .44 magnum ammo (velocity 1400ft/sec) and CAN be worn under a duty shirt (I did it for 20 years). NIJ Level III (rifle) body armor = sold in soft or hard plates, this armor will stop 7.62mm RIFLE ammo (2750ft/sec) cold. US Army SAPI plates are very close to this spec. NIJ Level IV (rifle) body armor = generally only found in hard plate form, this armor will stop up to 30-06 ARMOR PIERCING ammo (2800ft/sec) cold. US Army ESAPI plates are comparable to NIJ Level IV rifle plates. There are many types of armor that will stop various pistol and rifle rounds WITHOUT major injury to the wearer.
  2. In a real-life encounter in the city of Fallujah Iraq , US marines trapped in a location known as the "candy store" (a small corner store) dug a 3-foot hole in a concrete wall in just a couple of hours with a TACTICAL TOMAHAWK in order to escape an encirclement! If you're scared enough and fit enough, a warhammer could make short work of such a wall.
  3. My player would roll a Parry because... In order to keep players invested in the combat, ALL the dice are rolled together. The Attacker would roll the To Hit dice, the Location die, and the Damage die as one. I have them roll like this because I use the dice results to "narrate" what happened. On a miss, I will use the Damage die to describe the miss as a feeble jab or a mighty swing and the Location die as the area where the "near miss" took place. I need the Parry die rolled in order to narrate whether the Defender was successful in parrying the attack or not. Thus, EVERYONE rolls TOGETHER. This also speeds up combat and injects a sense of "urgency" into the player's decision-making during that combat.
  4. olskool

    Allied spirits

    I had only two Allied Spirits in my campaign. Ernie the Ferret and Barney the High Llama. In my eyes, they were not "servants" to their Runelords! They were there to guide, advise, and assist their Lords and to keep them "on the right path." As full-fledged NPCs, they could regenerate POW and had significant "free will." Ernie (a Trickster spirit) liked "shinies" and talked like a New York cabby. Since he didn't have pockets, he would "store his shinies" in Dedrie's (my player's RL character) pack. This led to a few uncomfortable encounters for Dedrie. He really ruffled the party mage (sorcerer) who had a standing threat to "make a pair of gloves out of [Ernie]." Barney (an Orlanthi Rex spirit) was very polite and spoke with a British accent. He was known for trying to talk sense into his somewhat reckless Runelord. I always wanted a Humakti Runelord with an Allied Spirit in his sword. I'd use a Boston "Southy" accent and think it would be funny to see a warrior in a shouting match with his sword. "Here I am in the worst place in the World and I have YOU to depend on. What was The Almighty THINKING!" I kind of like Marc from Zebra Corner on YouTube's attitude. https://youtu.be/S0jTcGBxh6w
  5. This happened to Kato13's Twilight2000 Forum too. Something about new GOOGLE rules and not automatically renewing the security certificate. Kato got it fixed but it was something stupid that GOOGLE just started.
  6. While I understood that it was a "ritual" in RQ2, I also used it to determine if a hide was successfully "skinned" without damaging it (for use in making stuff) and to determine just how much "meat" (for food) and how much fat (for lard and Alchemy) was rendered from a kill. I also used this as a skill check to harvest intact organs (for Alchemy) or body fluids (like the poison from a Manticore stinger). I guess this was just the hunter and farmer in me (I grew up on a farm).
  7. Or you had to "corner them" at a gaming convention... I'm NOT saying that I did that... but I DO "know a guy who knows a guy who did that." 😎
  8. We used the old RQ3 Knockback rules but modified them (of course). Knockback was a product of a "big damage hit." We actually had a "Knockback" Statistic created by averaging STR, SIZ, and DEX (rounding down) that we compared to the attacker's rolled damage. If Knockdown was exceeded, you were knocked prone UNLESS you rolled Knockdown - Excess Damage [over KDN stat] received X 5 or less. IF the damage exceeded TWICE Knockdown , you were automatically rendered prone and had to roll the formula above (with excess damage over 2 X KDN) to avoid being moved back 1 meter and taking an additional 1D4 damage (we reduced this from the RAW 1D6). Parrying or *Dodging would reduce the damage received and often prevented Knockback from occurring. If an attacker tried a deliberate Knockback attack, we compared the combatant's Knockbacks in a resistance test to see who won. The loser ended up prone 1m away. *We used a special version of the Dodge Skill where rolling under your skill would net a damage reduction equal to 1/10 Skill +1.
  9. Now all we need is that 16" X 24" large print edition in leatherette!
  10. Great minds think alike. Reach the HP threshold and the limb is TEMPORARILY disabled. 2 X HP and the limb is possibly permanently disabled (if a CON roll is failed). 3 X HP and the limb IS maimed or amputated. In RQ2, we also used a sort of "threshold system" for the total HP but we liked our Runequest "gritty." 1/4 HP in damage = Lightly Wounded with no effect. 1/4 HP to 1/2 HP = Moderately Wounded. +1 to SR. Move reduced to 75%. -1 to Characteristics when using the resistance chart or doing rolls. 1/2 HP to 3/4 HP = Seriously Wounded. +2 to SR. Move reduced to 50%. -2 to Characteristics when using them. *Skills reduced one Level to 3/4 (X0.75). 3/4 HP to 0 HP = Critically Wounded. +4 to SR. Move reduced to 25%. -4 to Characteristics when using them. *Skills reduced two Levels to 1/2 (x0.5). Negative HP = Unconscious and dying. CON roll to regain consciousness. Move 10% (crawling). -5 to characteristic tests. *Skills reduced tree Levels to 1/4 (X0.25). Negative HP over CON = DEATH. * We recorded our Skills on the sheet with the following "Difficulty Levels" and just "shifted difficulty" up or down as modifications to a skill during play as it was much faster than doing math. Those Levels were: Easy (2 X Skill) Routine (1.5 X Skill) Average (Skill) Fairly Difficult (0.75 X Skill) Difficult (0.5 X Skill) Formidable (0.25 X Skill) Impossible (0.1 X Skill)
  11. I substitute POW with WILL for mental strength. POW then becomes a "derived value" (based on WILL) like HP.
  12. I am reminded of Fred Ward's Shinanju instructor in the movie Remo Williams, The Adventure Begins. Even now I can see him telling Fred "You move like a pregnant Yak!"
  13. I worked armored cars for nearly two decades and I have NEVER understood the weight of coins in RPGs. Most medieval coins were alloyed just like modern ones. This significantly reduces the weight of a coin. I would just use a modern US Quarter's weight as the base weight for coinage. You get 180 Quarters total in a single Kilogram (coins are weighed to verify counts at the Federal Reserve). You could also use a slightly heavier weight to account for the coins containing more precious metal in them than modern US coins. I'd use a number like 150 coins per kg... a nice easily remembered number. If you like BIG coins just use the APPROXIMATE weight of a Half Dollar which would give you about 100 coins per kg.
  14. Zit's spot on. Just calculate the Treasure Factor for the party members and then make sure the monsters AT LEAST total that amount of TF. I say at least because a party with good synergy can survive a 200% of their TF advantage with some difficulty and routinely defeat up to 150% of their TF just through cooperation. I used this system to balance games so much that I even changed the name to Threat Factor.
  15. I'd definitely back a Chaosium reprint. I wonder how much SAN we lost looking at AH's artwork though?💀
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